Taipei, Part I: Outskirts (Taro Balls, Lanterns, Cat Village)

By no means is Taipei a small place, and before we explore the complex network of night markets and shopping districts, we should start from the outskirts.

At the hills surrounding Taipei is the New Taipei City, where you will find the scenic towns of Jiufen (九份), Shifen (十分) and Houtong (侯硐). Many of these towns have featured in famous Taiwanese films and in travel variety shows, so you will find the entire place starkly familiar as you walk through the narrow streets.

1. Jiufen (九份)

The three of us had little or no idea as to how to even get to Jiufen at first, so we were very fortunate to have my church friend, Lim Min link up with us at Songshan station. She had already been in Taiwan for three months on exchange at this point, and as luck would have it her friend, Joy, was visiting Taipei and so she was showing her around as well (I would feel bad if I just made her show us around so it felt very fitting).

We took the railway to Ruifang (瑞芳), which was a forty-minute ride. There was a shuttle bus that took us all the way up the hill to Jiufen, where the view of the Pacific Ocean slowly unravelled as the bus crawled up. It was raining heavily the previous night, so the air was cool and fresh, rather than the damp heat of the previous days.

The view from Jiufen, with Joy on the far left and Lim Min to my left!

I had been to Jiufen once, two years ago during an army exercise. It was picturesque and quaint when I last stepped in, and it still retains the same features after all that time. Almost nothing here had changed. The streets were narrow with their low hanging store signs and tightly packed stores selling everything from souvenirs, sweets, tea, desserts, savoury snacks, actual meals and even shoes. The entire place was packed even on a Tuesday afternoon.

   

What an average souvenir shop looks like.

There was a shop that specialised solely in Taro balls, and if you haven’t tried Taiwanese dessert back in Singapore, it’s basically the multi coloured chewy cylinder-shaped topping they sometimes add in. It is a prized possession back home and they’re very stingy with the portions. However, the Taro balls here were made with industrious efficiency, churned out effortlessly and served in huge portions. We ordered two cups and it was quite a mouthful, but at the same time, so much easier to chew. It had it’s own texture that one would be hard pressed to find back home.

Another production line.

    

We had a quick stop where we took some pictures of the scenery and tried out some tea, as well as the dried fruit use to manufacture Ninjompeipakoa, a Chinese throat remedy I initially thought was artificially made. Turns out it was from a Taiwanese fruit that left a minty aftertaste.

So this is where ninjompeipakoa comes from…

Before leaving, we took a quick stroll and a few pictures up the famous steps that led to Jiufen (we entered through the back) and it was notably decorated on both sides with red Chinese lanterns. It was a nice sight, and I fondly recall climbing the same steps while I was still in Army, and having that fleeting feeling of freedom in my chest. It kind of made me happy when I saw the same steps, that I was truly free from that phase of my life.

   

Great view and even better atmosphere!

2. Shifen (十分)

Shifen is a very interesting place because most people have probably seen it before in some form, in advertisements promoting tourism in Taiwan or at least in the film You are the Apple of My Eye (那些年我们一起追的女孩), where the main characters release the traditional Sky Lantern inscribed with their hopes and dreams.

Courtesy of http://archive.hkgolden.com/

Due to all the pop-culture hype, you may be fooled into thinking that that’s all Shifen will be famous for, but you would be wrong. We followed the tracks that led down Shifen Old Street and towards the Keelung River and followed the river to this natural attraction called the Shifen Waterfall (十分大瀑布).

En route to Shifen waterfall!

We saw some waterfalls in Taroko National Park, but they were insignificant compared to this giant. It measures 40 meters across and is 20 meters high. It had rained the entire night, so as you can imagine, the gush of water down the rock face was ferocious. It caused a dense cascade of mist to rush up at us and made us uncomfortably damp as we approached the viewing point. But take nothing away from the experience, the waterfall towers over everything and is a majestic sight to behold.

Walking further up, we had a closer look at the top of the waterfall. We threw a small leaf inside and it was instantaneously sucked into the stream. And there we were, hypnotised by the water’s bone crushing flow.

Alright, back to old street!

Back at the Old Street, we did release the Sky Lantern. It is tradition to write all of your latent hopes and wishes on the sides of the lantern before releasing it, and we did so excitedly, scribbling whatever came to our minds; well wishes for our family, wealth, health and even my blog URL. Just like everyone else, we stood over the middle of the tracks that were flanked on both sides by old shop houses. We were holding our lantern with our inscribed wishes and the fire was burning and filling up the lantern with hot air. And then something dramatic happened.

 The entire lantern started burning up. There was no warning, much to our horror. The lantern collapsed and was soon enveloped in flames, along with all our well wishes, hopes and dreams. It was a devastating moment, and although the shopkeeper gave us a consolation lantern, there was no time to write our well wishes before releasing it. Our hopes and dreams were gone just like that.

The dramatic disintegration of our dreams, as captured from Joy’s camera.

Still, if you aren’t unlucky like us, the lantern will probably lift-off. Just don’t hold it for too long when the fire is lighted.

3. Houtong Cat Village (猴硐貓村)

The entire village is a community effort.

I’ve heard a lot about this cat village, and to visit it always seemed like a distant dream, because I’m quite the fan of cats. I don’t think many people share this curious passion, because after all, cats appear to be very aloof and cold in their approach towards people, and just life in general. But it is a misunderstanding that this is so, because cats are just introverted animals that are unaware or are just not sure of how to express their love and care.

Anyway, enough of the cat preaching.

We said bye to Lim Min and Joy as we got off at Houtong Station (侯硐車站). Lim Min had been here before and Joy preferred dogs so there we were. Jonus and Clement weren’t particularly fond of cats either, so this entire trip was more or less meant for me.

The map to Cat Village!

I took some time to walk around the village, and from my research, it was actually started in 2008 by a cat lover who wanted a place for stray or abandoned cats to stay. It is a good initiative, and the cats were all very evenly spread out, but alas, so adorable. There were a few cats on the stairs and some on the walkway, all looking lazy from the long day of having to entertain these curious humans.

There was even a cat café at the top of the small village, and food stalls below selling street food, but most were closed, as it was already late. As you would expect, the cats were either sleeping or lazing around, and I think that was fine. They sometimes walked over and were curious as to what was in our plastic bags.

The cats would sometimes fight, hiss and scratch at each other, but that’s actually very common feline behaviour. It reminded me of the two cats I used to own in the past and how they always hated each other.

   

To say I’m in love with cats is a little exaggerated. I just believe that cats make better companions than dogs is all, and that they can be tremendously affectionate if you give them the chance to. To put it simply, I’m just a cat person.

After a few pictures, we had to rush back to the platform to catch the train back to Taipei, leaving the cat village behind, never to return again.

* * * * * *

Exploring the Taiwan outskirts is convenient, but not straightforward. For that I have to thank Lim Min for guiding us around and helping us make sense of all the public transport. It was also quite a while since we’d last talked so it was nice to catch up!

 The outskirts are a part of Taiwan hidden behind hills and shrubbery, but if you’re diligent enough to venture out of the city, this is what you’ll find, a place rich in both cultural and natural beauty.

Cingjing: Have You Any Wool?

Off the winding roads of Taroko Gorge, we arrived at the quiet Cingjing (清境) farm. We lived a literal stones’ throw away from the farm. The entire farm overlooked the mountain range and the day was clear enough to get a good view of the entire area. There was a spectacular view to behold.

This view would prove to be only a distraction to the main attraction: a herd of sheep waiting for us at the hilly farm. There’s really not much more to say about this situation. There were just a bunch of humans walking around, getting fascinated by the sheep that walked around doing unspectacular things like eating grass, peeing and defecating.

Entrance to Cingjing Farm looks like a fortress.

But they were cute, I suppose. With their blur expressions and wool that you can stick your whole finger in. They came in a few varieties too, some with horns and in varying coats. They were far more interesting to us than we were to them. And they would even meh at you if you stood in their way. Sheep-human communication was strictly one way, and very straightforward. If you didn’t have any food with you, prepare to be ignored. They were like a group of materialistic women who only went after the men that could feed them. There was no care or affection involved, the sheep were driven by hunger and greed. But they (the sheep) were still cute, which made us admire them anyway.

All three varieties lined up perfectly!

This lamb looks a little like Bradley Cooper if you look closely.

There were also horses and ponies on display but they were chained to one spot and looked extremely depressed. We tried talking to them and making them look over at our cameras, but it only seemed to deepen their sadness.

All in all, it was a good stroll in the farm, and we ended off by drinking some homemade goat milk and ice cream. It was the least we could do to support the efforts of the cute sheep.

Moving on to our next objective!

Besides the obvious attraction that is the sheep, what else is there to do at Cingjing? The answer can be found further down the road, at a peculiar place called Little Switzerland (小瑞士). Very similar to Da Lat in Vietnam, this entire area is dedicated to modelling itself after Switzerland. I have no memory of ever going to Switzerland, but my impression of this place is clear cut: it didn’t really make me feel like I was in the alps. There was a windmill at the entrance, and a bunch of shops selling chocolates. To make things more apparent there was a sign on a hill that said “Swiss Garden”.

Hola from Little Switzerland!

Further in, there was an entire garden with the European theme, with well manicured lawns, flowers in bloom, ducks, geese, and a huge pond in the middle spouting random fountains and featuring yet another windmill. The entire place, I dare say, was catered more towards couples rather than three dudes. But if you’re thinking of spending your honeymoon here, do note that the entire garden costs 120NT (S$5.20) to enter.

Up the road you’ll find a place called Little France (小法国) which sadly has almost no relevance to France except the signboard. There a a bunch of shops selling Taiwanese products in the area and a steakhouse that we had no time to try. I did get some honey from the shops though, purely because they display the bees at the counter like how they display puppies at pet shops. The guy was very casual about it, assuring us that the bees are the friendliest bees we’ll see, but he would tense up a little if we got too close. He was almost reaching for his smoke machine when I reached out for this picture below.

I could have been stung to death taking this picture.

So is this Europe theme a go or no go? I believe for the effort they put in to try emulate a European setting, you should give this place a try. But at the same time, don’t expect too much!

For my one and only food recommendation of this area, you’d have to go downhill, to this place (甕缸鸡) that sells astoundingly good chicken. Why so good? Lets start with how they make the chicken.

Alright, so firstly they put the goods into this huge metal pot that looks like a giant ginko nut. That’s where they put on some seriously high heat and the chicken sits in there to slow cook.

Then they serve the chicken. We got a whole chicken and you know, normally the story ends there. But this place is pretty awesome because they offer you double layer gloves to pluck to meat off the chicken! Why didn’t anyone think of this back home? It’s fun, efficient and there is less wastage of meat.

Now, for the meat. The meat has its own story. The chicken has walked up and down the hills of Cingjing, been slow cooked for so long and finally, has been affectionately plucked from the bone with my own hands. The meat, gosh the meat. It basically has the sort of texture that would save you from any Hell’s Kitchen elimination challenge. And the skin. The skin is crispy at first but melts after a few bites. I mean, if there’s any chicken I’m going to be dramatic about, it’s this little fellow.

The aftermath.

What a treat, and with a stunning view, too.

So there you have it. Sheep, Europe and chicken. If you need any more reason to visit Cingjing, you’re a seriously spoilt and ruined person. Do come if you have the time, it will be worth the nauseous car rides and chilly weather!

Taichung next!

Taroko National Park: Mountain Sound

One of the must see attractions around the East of Taiwan is the beautiful and dramatic scenery of Taroko National Park.

There are many ways to go about this park. The most economical but least recommended option would be to rent a bicycle and cycle around the place. The slopes meander aggressively and are hopelessly steep, giving you the impossible task of getting up, let alone coming back. You could rent a car, but some sick skills are needed to navigate the narrow roads bordering the insanely steep cliff faces and oncoming cars. If you’re not an experienced driver, you wouldn’t want to be responsible for the deaths of your loved ones. So that left us with the tour bus option, or to rent a private taxi to get us around. In the end we chose the more expensive option, the taxi. This choice turned out to be an excellent choice as the road trip unravelled.

Our trusty driver and taxi!

We were very fortunate because it was blue skies and bright sunlight that greeted us today, something far removed from the gloomy weather of the previous two days.

Great weather greeted us at Hualien.

As we left the sea level of Hualien City, the mountainous expanse of Taroko National Park revealed itself to us. We stopped first at the Cingshui Cliffs (请水断崖), and had a quick look at the beach from the cliffside and the Pacific ocean that stretched on beyond. It was just an introduction to what was in store.

The Pacific Ocean.

We stopped by the entrance of the park, and then went inside, through the slopes and turns. Immediately we could tell that the driver was very well acquainted with every bend of the road, and on top of that, he could recite a brief history of the place, the things you could find here and the attractions we stopped at were all scenic beyond everyday comprehension.

   

Clockwise from top left: Eternal Spring Shrine (长春祠) from a distance, then close up, and the red steel bridge that leads to it.

One of the many footbridges we saw on our adventure.

The entire trip more or less consisted of us getting off the car when the driver stopped and him helping us take pictures at the scenic areas. At first it would appear that he was just taking casual pictures but it soon became apparent that he knew exactly which angle was the best and even how to adjust the brightness. The pictures all came out looking really good. Every landmark or natural formation that he stopped at had some significance or scenic value so we were more than happy to oblige to his every instruction.

Helmets on!

Dark caves awaited around every turn!

Swallow Grotto (燕子口) Is named after the swallows that display their high speed manoeuvres down the cliff faces.

   

   

   

Clement guarding the water curtain cave! There was water dripping down on us from the ceilings, the walls and flowing beneath our feet. 

The pillars that protect us from the possible rockfall

As we drove higher, the weather got colder and we could wind down the windows. We then stopped at the side of the road and upon looking down we realised that we were above the clouds! There were just vacant lots of white cloud beneath us and weaving their way through the mountains. It was truly an incredible sight.

Above the clouds.

More good views passed before we reached Wuling, (武嶺) the highest point in Taiwan that is accessible by car. The entire peak was shrouded in one giant cloud, so the blue skies below was quickly replaced by a raging mist that surrounded the entire area. We were practically in a cloud at this point. There was no scenery beyond but the wall of white, which was disappointing, because who wouldn’t want to see the view? The temperature was a bone-chilling 6 degrees and we hurriedly took some pictures and left before we froze to death. It was still a novel experience, and reminded me of the deathly chill of Munich.

That thought-catalog worthy shot.

Pretending to be ok with the cold.

Clement guarding the road.

In the final analysis, the only thing that could compete with the stunning views was our driver’s talent for driving, knowledge of the national park and expert photo taking skills. He was our Hamilton, Attenborough and Steve McCurry all in one humble package. It is because of him that the extra money we meted out was worth it. It was a way more personal experience than the field trip style of a tour bus and probably much more efficient and so we covered more ground in less time. For a little more money, it is more than worth it to hire a driver ( provided he can be as awesome as ours, no promises there).

The foggy conditions our driver had to deal with half the time. He wore his sunglasses anyway.

He was also an excellent photographer, the pictures were just perfect everytime, as you can see below.

As we left the high altitude, I was suddenly reminded of army again. The hills we climbed, the jungles we trekked, the old buildings in which we fought in. Taiwan had been an integral cog in the machine that caused us so much agony. I’m just so glad we could come back to its nature and do the sensible thing; to enjoy ourselves in all its wonder. Nature should be used to enhance and inspire our minds rather than exhaust and destroy them. Taiwan has paid us back handsomely for all the struggling it had once caused, and it is magnificent to savour.

The awesome power of nature, to be enjoyed rather than endured.

Hualien, Part II: Food Report

Taiwan is famous for its food. We had prepared ourselves coming into this trip. It’s so strange because i’m not exactly a food person but I knew I would have very little to write if I were to stay away from the whole food thing. So here I am, doing something every mainstream travel blogger will have to do. Address the elephant in the room and just post about all the damn culinary concoctions and gastronomical gibberish.

Taiwan has forced me to do so, but seriously, as I was eating, the food actually all tasted really good. It’s the kind of goodness where you’ll pause for a while and smile to yourself. If I had to go about doing food posts about one place, I’d have to say it’s here.

Hualien at night.

Our first stop is Hualien, so, here’s what we discovered in this Eastern Taiwanese town.

1. 鹅肉先生 (Goose)

No. 259號, Zhongshan Road

There wasn’t much hype about this place on the outset. We went because our AirBnb host recommended this to us and circled its position on the map. The goose meat just sat on the counter, heads separate from the body, staring accusingly at all the customers. Unlike in Hong Kong, the goose preparation was different; it was steamed rather than roasted, so it had quite a bare and “naked” appearance, like that of white chicken.

We ordered one quarter goose for a try, and the dish did not look appetising if I had to be honest.

Only once you bite in will you understand why it was recommended. The flesh is cold and soft but not too chewy, and the sauce perfectly brings out this subtle alcohol taste on the meat. Im not so sure how it would taste to everyone else but it was really nice to me. It’s not something you’ll ever find in Singapore, so I’d say it’s worth the try.

2. 公正包子周家蒸餃 (Dumplings and Baos)

No. 199之2号, Zhongshan Rd

Clement guarding the Bao shop.

This place is one of the famous eateries in Hualien and so we expected a long queue. To our delight, there wasn’t much of a queue when we arrived, and there was even space inside for us to sit.

Things happen so fast here.

We ordered a few things and the waiting staff was so efficient that even before we got to our seats, the Baos were already waiting for us on the table (this is not an exaggeration).

I preferred the failsafe pork and chive dumplings, though the xiaolongbaos here come in a special variety, with the skin of a charsiewbao but the typical soupy filling.

Pork and chive dumplings.

Specialty Xiaolongbaos.

The staff also seemed to be more robot than human, industriously churning out the next batch of Baos like Oompa Loompas in a chocolate factory. It was insane to behold.

It’s a production line.

Worth a try? We’d give it a definite yes.

3. 彩虹夜市 (Night market)

970, Taiwan, 花蓮縣花蓮市

中山路50

This night market used to be popular, but went under renovation, so all we could visit was a temporary holding area where only some shops were open. Hence, business wasn’t very good here. A lot of game stalls were open and though the stall tenders were calling out to us, we had no time to play their games.

We were about as lively as the place ever got.

We ended up eating a some beef steak on top of spaghetti, sharing bubble tea and eating a fried chicken cutlet (炸鸡排)

Overall, the food was decent, but not memorable or groundbreaking. For that, I would recommend you only come to this place if you REALLY have an urge to explore the entire town.

4. 包心粉圆 (Dessert)

No. 165, Bo’ai Street

This desert stall calls for some soul searching, because there are two different stalls right next to each other with exact same names. You’ll have to just believe whichever stall owner comes out first, but in our opinion, the real one is the one closer to the main road (Zhonghua Rd).

Iced waffle.

The dessert is a very special blend of caramel, honeydew flavoured tapioca  balls, grass jelly and some fine ice. It’s like a very special ice kachang. And it tasted good, too.

5. 戴记扁食 (Dumpling and Wanton Soup)

No. 120號, Zhonghua Road

If all the food you’ve eaten still leaves some space, you can try this place, that sells dumpling/wanton soup.

Hearty soup.

Upon first trying it you may think that it is bland, but the next few sips should convince you as to why it is marked out on your map. Especially with the slightly chilly weather, the soup helps you warm up and you’ll leave the place all jelly-ed up and warm inside.

6. 自强夜市 (Night market)

Ziqiang Road

The biggest night market you’ll find in Hualien takes up two streets and is littered with great street food and delicacies. Even on a weekday it was crowded with mostly locals, walking around and having the best of Taiwanese fare.

We started with the 棺材板, which directly translates to “coffin board”. Basically it’s a bread where they cut a sizbale hole down the middle and shove in some delicious stuffings, making it seem like a coffin of sorts. We ordered the beef and crab fillings, and boy were they delicious.

Clement keeps guarding the queue…

Looks like a mess, but boy you should try it.

We tried more stuff including some cooked oysters, fried chicken cutlets, fishballs, bubble milk tea, and of course, the infamous 臭豆腐, also known as smelly tofu.

Oyster me up!

Average only.

And of course.

You can smell it from meters away and with all due respect to the cuisine, it smells just like the warm air that wafts out from a sewage manhole. It’s terrible to smell, but once you chew on it it begins to taste bearable. However, the tofu still wins, because it leaves a nascent taste in your mouth, and your breath stinks after that. Take it up as a challenge to try it, by all means. You may be surprised that you may actually like it. That smelly tofu, however, will be our first and last one of the trip.

Smelly Tofu, not for the faint hearted.

* * * * *

A good introduction to Taiwanese food is how I would summarise our gastronomical adventures here. It has left a pleasant impression regardless of how spicy, salty, creamy or smelly our food has been. This is Taiwan after all, as I had mentioned, where food finds you instead of the other way around.

There will be a lot more food, in a lot more varieties, boasting a lot more flavours. And we will be more than happy to take in all of it. And I will be more than happy to share more of it with you guys!

Goodnight, Hualien. Thanks for the introduction to Taiwanese fare 🙂

Hualien, Part I: Beach Please

I don’t know where this whole idea of going to the beach came from, but when we arrived at Hualien, we already decided we were going to the beach, because it was sort of a seaside city. Ok, it was a seaside city.

Some research was needed, and when we arrived at our AirBnb the host gave us a huge map and some general directions to Chihsingtan Beach (七星潭海邊). His expression was very lacklustre when he was describing the place, so we sort of knew what to expect— probably not a lot.

Our host lent us three bikes, and the weather that greeted us was the typical spring gloom, cloudy with sporadic episodes of light rain. It would be a quick ride to the shore, where we would follow the beach all the way to the north.

   

Upon hitting the shore, we could only wonder: what beach? The entire expanse was a void of rocks and concrete meeting the dark waters beyond. It was Singapore without the imported sand from Indonesia. It looked…underwhelming.

We cycled on, past a wooden bridge, into the woods, out of the woods, onto dirt paths, wooden planks, asphalt, concrete. We crossed a red bridge, saw an artistic wall, crossed train tracks, and watched as factories upon factories streamed past. It was only a matter of time before we got used to the monochromatic gloom, the industrial theme blending into the damp darkness of the sky.

  

We finally saw some trace of beach, and Clement and I (the little children we are) walked down a small gap and down the decline, onto the rocky shores. It was so rocky, so so rocky. But there was some beauty in the rocks, at least. The beach seemed to stretch on further so there was some scenery to behold. Apprehensive about what we may see next, the three of us cycled on.

An artistic shot is always appreciated.

The rain occasionally paid us short visits, but it was the sort of light rain that only lingered on the top layer of our arm hair in minuscules droplets. Anyone could cycle through this as long as you don’t mind some dampness in your hair.

Feeling so small.

The journey is what counts.

Finally, we arrived at Chihsingtan beach, and wow.

It wasn’t one bit disappointing. Sure, the weather was in a constant gloom. Sure, the rain came and went with it’s soppy dampness. But the entire beached stretched on before us like the starting scene of Inception. You could almost see Leonardo Decaprio washed up on it’s pebbled shores, crying out for help. The sand was grey, as was the sky, keeping in pace with the greyness of the ocean. It was just many shades of grey, and because of this peculiar consistency, you could appreciate the calmness and I don’t know, just stare at the expanse and think about what your life could have been had you not done this or that.

INCEPTION

But as usual, we did none of that. We just ate from the ninja vans that parked at the end of the beach, appreciating the sights. In Taiwan, food tends to find you instead of the other way round, so there we were, the three of us, sitting there, enjoying our improvised lunch as the gentle sea breeze took it’s time to mess up our hair.

Behind these two tourists is a ninja van.

   

Time for some real night market style food next. Stay tuned!

Taiwan, Prologue: How it Should Have Been

We’re off to Taiwan today!

For a lot of us guys, when we think of Taiwan, it’s always something to do with army.

I mean, the last two occasions that we had the privilege to travel there was with the army, and both times were very memorable occasions. Memorable, yes, but happy? Not so. We weren’t very much in control of our lives, a lot of things were denied from us.

We did have a few days to look around, but these occasions were deliberately limited to keep us under some form of control.

In so many ways, this Taiwan trip is the complete antithesis of the previous Taiwan trips. It is a 180 degree switch from all we could ever hope for. From even the feeling of anticipation that wells up as you go to the airport, to having our passports checked ONLY at the departure gate and to walking around freely, through the gates, onto the plane and having every action we make, actually made by ourselves.

That is the truly how it should have been, but just wasn’t that way all this while. It was a place that once symbolised a loss of freedom. All that is about to change.

So here we come, Taiwan! I’m still not entirely sure what’s going to happen there, but I’m sure the company, food (I love Asian food) and above all, the freedom, will be more than enough to make every moment worth it.

Stay tuned, an adventure awaits!